Sea Kayaker Magazine Stitch & Glue

While attending the 1999 Newfound Woodworks Rendezvous, I had the opportunity to get a close-up view of a stitch & glue kayak based on the design by Chris Cunningham which appeared in Sea Kayaker Magazine (Fall 1994).  I already had a copy of the plans, but until that point, I hadn't thought too much about building a stitch & glue.  Seeing one in person quickly changed my mind.  The boat was a very attractive design and the builder, Joe Mellusi, had done a fantastic job.  The painted surface looked more like a gelcoat finish than painted plywood.  The idea of using inexpensive lauan and a little paint to build a really good-looking boat appealed to me.  Build a kayak and save money at the same time?  How could I, in good conscience, not build one?

My project began with the extravagant expenditure of $32 for 4 sheets of lauan from Home Depot.  The photo shows the end of the project - it links to some more final photos.

(If you decide to build this design, make sure you get the corrected set of panel, bulkhead, and cradle dimensions from Sea Kayaker)

Preparation

The prep work involved drawing the outlines for the panel blanks on the sheets of lauan, cutting them out, scarfing some of the pieces to form longer blanks, transferring the panel offsets to the blanks, connecting the dots with a batten to form smooth curves, cutting-out and shaping the final panels, and drilling the wiring holes.  Since the dimensions in the plans were specified in meters, I did have to buy a metric tape measure before I could layout the panels.  But it was a relatively inexpensive purchase from Lee Valley Tools.  But of course everyone knows that tool purchases don't count towards the cost of the boat.

Assembling the Hull

After building 3 strip boats, I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly the hull took shape. I think that stitching the hull took all of an hour and a half.   The 5mm lauan was thicker than the plans specified, so it took some "convincing" to get the bottom panels into shape.  But some strategically-placed spring clamps and some extra wiring at the stems took care of that. Once the bottom and side panels were all stitched together, I spot-tacked the panels between the wires with thickened epoxy so that I could remove the wires prior to filleting and taping the interior seams.

In keeping with the spirit of the project (minimal spending), I used the only appropriately-sized wire I had on hand - an old spool of multi-conductor, solid-core 22 gauge telephone wire.   It worked, but twisting it required a really light touch to avoid breakage.  I wouldn't recommend it, but it was free, and I didn't mind taking the extra care in wiring.

Retractable Skeg

I ran the gamut of skeg configurations while brainstorming for a design that I really liked.  The plans do contain a full description for a retractable skeg, and while I liked the serviceability of the inner and outer trunk configuration, that arrangement did add extra weight as well as route the control lines over the rear deck. I wanted to reduce the weight and complexity  while keeping it serviceable.  I also wanted to experiment with a self-extending design.

I found another How-To article in Sea Kayaker (June 1995) that described the construction of a fiberglass skeg and housing, and although I didn't plan to build mine from fiberglass, I did use the design as a basis for my skeg's shape.  I started by building a prototype which was invaluable in arriving at the final design for my retractable skeg.

I purchased 2 brass plumbing fixtures, some nylon rope, and a length of polyethylene tubing for the construction of the trunk (about $6 total).  The rest of the materials was scraps of things I had lying around.

Assembling the Deck

I decided to make a small concession to strip building by stripping a bit of the deck at the bow and stern. The practical outcome of installing the flat fore and aft decks in pieces is that it will allow me to reach all the way to the tip when taping the hull/deck seam. 

The plans only call for tape on the interior seams.  I plan to glass the underside of the two flat deck sections (and the stripped portions too) before they're installed to strengthen the deck.   The lauan doesn't seem particularly sturdy, so I think the extra glass is almost a necessity.

Glassing

The overall kayak shape is complete and ready for exterior glass.  I taped the seams first for extra strength.  After feathering the seam tape, I glassed the hull with 7.5oz cloth and the deck with 6 oz cloth.

Cockpit

Instead of using the stacked-plywood technique, I built the cockpit coaming using redwood and pine strips and ash laminations.   With the exception of the cockpit recess, it's the same technique I used on the Guillemot.

Seat

I built another seat from the mold I made from my Dagger production seat. It's multiple layers of mostly scraps of fiberglass with epoxy colored with graphite powder.  (For even more details, you can read the full story on how I made the mold and the first seat.)

Paint and Varnish

I won 2 gallons of military surplus 2-part polyurethane paint in an eBay auction.  It was cheap, but unfortunately it was camo gray.  I decided to use it on the hull and paint the deck with Interlux Brightsides, a 1-part polyurethane paint.  As the weight of this boat keeps going up, painting it battleship gray seems more and more appropriate.

Deck Rigging

Instead of the recessed fittings described in the plans, I used this S&G to test my ash loops for deck rigging. (For more information, read the details of how I made the laminated ash loops ).  Originally I thought that I would use them on the Guillemot, but I just couldn't bring myself to drill into the deck.  I'll see how they work out on the S&G and possibly install them in the Guillemot later.

Hatches

I considered trying the VCP hatches, but then reminded myself that I was trying to build as much of the boat with what I had on hand.  Instead, I built the flush hatches described in the plans.  I did enlarge the aft hatch a bit and moved the opening forward to provide room to route the skeg control tube around the perimeter.  I also used this opportunity to build hatch lips like the ones described on the One Ocean Kayak website.

Finished

Well, it's nearly complete.  I still need to finish outfitting it, but it's been out a couple times for a test paddle.  I had intended to install Yakima footbraces, but the foreward bulkhead is just at the tips of my toes, so the Yakimas won't work.  Instead, I'll reinforce the bulkhead with some glass and line the cockpit side with some minicell foam.  It should make a comfortable (but not adjustable) footbrace.  I still need some more time in the boat to see how the skeg works out.